Superfood Berries - A Bitter Aftertaste
January 17, 2025
From places where their cultivation is bad news for both people and for nature itself.
Southern Portugalis a booming region for berry production in Europe. The country’s cultivation zone has increased fivefold in recent years - to almost 5,000 hectares. One of the producers: Logofruits. The Portuguese company grows blueberries on its plantation in Odemira on 75 hectares of land.
For the owner, Lourenço de Botton, the biggest challenge is finding enough workers for the harvest season. Blueberries have to be picked by hand, a labor-intensive process that requires Logofruits to employ around 600 workers per day. Many of those toiling in the orchards in the Alentejo region come from Nepal, India or Bangladesh.
Odemira’s mayor Hélder Guerreiro explains that almost 11,000 migrant workers from over 80 countries now live here. This corresponds to around 40 per cent of the municipality's population.
Although on the one hand it’s a great opportunity for the region, which has struggled with emigration in the past, it also presents a huge social challenge. Another problem, according to Guerreiro, is intensive farming’s huge demand for water.
One thing’s for sure: a growing appetite for berries in Germany has consequences for the countries where they are grown. Blueberries and raspberries also grow in Germany, but not all year round. In summer, supermarkets should be full of regional fruit. But they’re not. Even during the domestic season, more and more produce from abroad can be found on the fresh produce shelves. What does this mean for German berry producers?
Erik Appel from Darmstadt grows raspberries, among other things. However, berries cultivated in Germany are completely different to those that have been shipped over long distances. These varieties have been bred to be particularly robust and long-lasting. When it comes to raspberries from the region for the local market, flavor is paramount. And in that respect, says Erik Appel, nothing beats local berries. In terms of labor costs however, it’s almost impossible to compete with imported goods. After all, Germany has one of the highest minimum wages in Europe. This is reflected in the price - imported goods are often cheaper than regional berries.
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